Klemheist knot

Klemheist knot
NamesKlemheist knot, French Machard knot
CategoryHitch
RelatedPrusik knot, Bachmann knot, Blake's hitch
Typical useRock climbing
ABoK#1762
Instructions

The klemheist knot or French Machard knot is a type of friction hitch that grips the rope when weight is applied, and is free to move when the weight is released. It is used similarly to a Prusik knot or the Bachmann knot to ascend or descend a climbing rope. One advantage is that webbing can be used as an alternative to cord. The Klemheist is easier to slide up than a Prusik. The klemheist is also a way to attach a snubber to the anchor rope of small boats, with the advantage that it is easy to undo.

Sometimes the knot name is misspelled as "kleimheist", with an extra "i".